Zukiswa Wanner’s top five tourist spots in Nairobi

Prominent author Zukiswa Wanner, born to a South African father and Zimbabwean mother in Zambia, has a complicated relationship with Nairobi, the Kenyan capital and her adopted city of seven years.

“In its many layers, Nairobi has the beauty and the frustrations of all African cities I love,” said Wanner, 43, a former columnist at Daily Nation, Kenya’s leading newspaper.

“With the added convenience of being a gateway to the rest of the world, I miss it when I stay away for too long, but it also tires me when I stay too long.”

The award-winning author of nine books, with themes revolving around gender, sex, race and nationality, is also the moderator of regular talks with African artists in a series sponsored by Goethe Institut Nairobi, a nonprofit cultural association. Wanner says Nairobi is a magnet for a reason…

“It is [accessible] to the rest of the continent and the world. I often feel like I’m staying in the centre of the world. Its people, across the economic brackets, also have beautiful appreciation of art that warms the heart.”

She is drawn to out-of-the-way places that make her forget about the city’s intense traffic. She shares her five top spots.

1. Ole Sereni Hotel

Ole Sereni Hotel. Wanner says she enjoys watching the animals and unwinding at sundown with a cocktail or beer.  (Brian Otieno/The New York Times)

This popular 134-room hotel has four restaurants overlooking Nairobi National Park, a game reserve where you can feed baby elephants and see giraffes and other wildlife. Wanner enjoys watching the animals and unwinding at sundown with a cocktail or beer. Her frequent drink of choice is the Kenyan Tusker beer.

2. Bookstop

NAIROBI, Kenya. Zukiswa Wanner inside Bookstop at Yaya Centre in Nairobi, Kenya where her books gets sold in November 2019. (Brian Otieno/The New York Times)

Founded in 1988, this bookstore has a wide selection of books from across the globe, including influential authors such as Chinua Achebe from Nigeria, Ngugi wa Thiong’o from Kenya, and Charles Mungoshi from Zimbabwe. Situated in the middle-class neighbourhood of Hurlingham, the shop is also well stocked with both the latest books and classic works, in addition to a large children’s collection.

“In a city that prides itself on being digital, Bookstop defies any and all arguments of the book being dead by constantly, quietly stating through its continual presence, ‘long live the book’,” says Wanner.

3. Kuona Trust

Visual artists work in the studio space of this nonprofit organisation, started by the National Museum of Kenya in 1995. They also showcase and sell paintings, ceramics, sculptures and bags. “A visit is like attending an exhibition that’s continually in progress. And it’s a great thing. Reserve at least two hours to truly enjoy the experience,” Wanner said.

4. GP Karting events centre

NAIROBI, Kenya. GP Karting Events Centre. (Brian Otieno/The New York Times)

You can participate in paintball or go-karting at GP Karting in Kenya. Both activities require protective gear for safety. “I prefer GP Karting. I’m a bit of an adrenaline junkie and unlike paintball shooting, which is a team sport, in GP Karting one’s win is entirely in their hands.”

5. Bandas and Grill

NAIROBI, Kenya. Bandas and Grill. (Brian Otieno/The New York Times)

In Swahili, nyama choma means grilled meat. In a city with many options for nyama choma, this restaurant, with indoor and outdoor seating in the gated residential South C neighbourhood, has a menu that’s hard to beat.

“What really sets them apart from most choma joints is their poussin chicken wings. The wings will appear dry when one first sees them but at first bite, they are the softest, most delicious wings one is likely to find in Nairobi.”

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