Cruise ship on sea. Picture: Jim Freeman
As I stood looking down at the dim lights of Knysna early on the first morning of a recent trip to the so called Jewel of the Garden Route, all I could think was “what a great day to be an oyster”.
Within minutes the lights – and the entire lagoon – disappeared completely as rain, accompanied by fierce winds, came lashing down. Drenched and disgusted, I got back in my car and coasted down the hill to Belvidere Manor for a hot shower.
A group of us had left Stellenbosch the previous morning, ploughing through the first of the many storms that have battered the Western Cape for the past fortnight. We got the jump on the foul weather just beyond Riviersonderend and were hopeful the fronts would veer away before they reached Knysna.
Indeed, we arrived in bright sunshine. We were in town to preview the 40th annual Oyster Festival, which takes place from 30 June to 9 July.
The festival incorporates a host of separate events, from adventure sports and markets to art exhibitions, pageants and the Knysna Wine Festival on 7 and 8 July.
The festival traditionally coincides with the start of the whale watching season and the organisers have themed the 2023 event as “having a whale of a time”.
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Marine molluscs are the name of the game and Drydock restaurant co-owner Elizabeth Vertue greeted our group with a tasting plate of the headline act and a glass of Leopard’s Leap bubbly.
Did you know that South Africans (and visitors to these shores) swallow some five million oysters a year? Or that local consumption dates back many millennia?
Oysters are rich in omega-3 fatty acids, which play an essential role in brain function and normal growth and development.
They are also an excellent source of zinc, iron, calcium, and selenium, as well as vitamins A and B12. “Scientists,” says Vertue, “believe the earliest oyster-eating humans lived at Pinnacle Point near Mossel Bay about 165 000 years ago.” This, she adds, would imply the emergence of “Intelligent Man” on the southern tip of Africa.
“The history of commercial cultivation in Knysna goes back to the late ’40s when pearl oysters were imported from Japan in a bid to create work for unemployed forest woodcutters. “An attempt was made to cultivate them here in the lagoon and, although the project continued until the mid-’90s, it was largely unsuccessful,” she says.
“Although they were referred to as ‘Knysna’ oysters, they didn’t grow well and were periodically killed when the Knysna River came down in flood and the lagoon was inundated with fresh water, and the industry was shut down. “The local cultivated oysters you now eat come from around Saldanha on the West Coast.”
Nonetheless, the Knysna Oyster Festival has continued to grow in scope and popularity. Cultivated oysters, says Vertue, are smaller and have a different taste from their “wild” counter parts that proliferate between Jeffreys Bay and Cape Agulhas.
The species crassostrea margaritacea is unique to the southern Cape coastline and would have become extinct years ago had it not been for cultivation. “Only 500 000 of these may be harvested a year … a mere 10% of demand.”
Thesen Island and the Knysna Waterfront, in which the Drydock Food Company (www.drydock. co.za) is located, are very different from the V&A Waterfront in Cape Town.
For one thing, it’s a lot more industrialised and you’ll find some tourist gems cheek-by-jowl with panel beaters and shopfitters.
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One such jewel is The Spice and Tea House, a nook where – from the moment you open the door you’re regaled with the delectable smells of edible aromatics.
Proprietor Sanchia Hadlow was a restaurateur in a former life and has been running The Spice and Tea House (www.thespiceandtea house.co.za) for the past seven years.
Her knowledge of tea is compendious. “While I was studying clinical psychology at Wits University more than 30 years ago, I worked part-time at a place called the Russian Tea House in Hyde Park.
Years later, I moved with my mother to Knysna and we eventually opened our own restaurant, Firefly Eating House and Chai Bar. We ran that for 16 years.” Serving a cup of tea, she says, “can be art.
Your final enjoyment of tea is the ritual that surrounds it: the cup you choose and the temperature to which you heat it, especially on a cold day; the teapot and the ratio of water to tea; the quality of water.
The time you brew your tea is also important”. The products she offers for sale or on-site consumption are glorious..my favourite being honey bush tea with chai spices, served as an accompaniment to a tiny bobotie spring roll served with mint chutney.
Chai is a sweetened milky Indian tea, brewed with a blend of spices that traditionally include cloves, cinnamon, ginger, black pepper and cardamom – perfect for a wet and wild winter day.
For those who prefer an alcoholic punch, there are a couple of craft breweries in Knysna and neighbouring Sedgefield (the latter is included in the Knysna Oyster Festival, along with Rheenendal and Buffels Bay). One, the Red Bridge Brewing Company, also produces an artisanal gin called Phantom.
There are any number arts and crafts initiatives but if shopping isn’t your thing, you might consider visiting the Knysna Elephant Park. For a more detailed breakdown of festival activities, go to www. knysnaoysterfestival.co.za.
Knysna and surrounds offer any number of accommodation options to suit all budgets. During my visit, I stayed at Portland Manor (covered a fortnight ago by Citizen Travel) and Belvidere Manor.
If there’s a downside to Knysna, it is that the N2 “freeway” with all the heavy trucks ferrying cargo between Cape Town and Gqeberha winds right through the centre of town round the clock, making it a very noisy place to be.
Belvidere, however, is on the western edge of the lagoon and far from traffic. It is also on the way to – and not far from – the gorgeous unspoiled beaches of Brenton-on-Sea, while the panoramic views of the entire lagoon from three-quarters of the way up the hill beyond the four star Manor are unmatched – provided, of course, there’s any form of visibility.
Belvidere Manor (www.belvi dere.co.za) is steeped in history but the facilities are modern and stylish. The luxury self-catering cottage I occupied was well equipped, even to the extent of having electric blankets.
Staff didn’t blink when we said we required extra wood to keep our fire going through the Baltic night. Best of all is the wonderful Bell Tavern which offers freshly baked pot pies.
In case you’re wondering why I’m whingeing about the weather when most of my pictures depict glorious sunshine, I was offered a four-hour window in the weather and had to retrace my steps like a madman. But that’s Western Cape weather for you.
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