Museum of military history

One of the nation”s least explored – or visited – centres of excellence is the National Museum of Military History.

Or simply the Military Museum. Situated in close proximity to the Johannesburg Zoo in the quietly affluent suburb of Saxonwold, its vaguely musty, slightly run-down air of quiet dignity is a stark contrast to its opulent surroundings.

It does, of course, commemorate war, its innate heroism, and its innate waste, and the field guns, tanks, airplanes, and the rest that it houses are – it must be remembered – instruments of death. But these mute artifacts of destruction are really a reflection of the violent nature of humanity, albeit frequently redeemed by the nobility of sacrifice.

So it is inevitable that a museum such as this would evoke a sombre contemplation of our follies and our history underlines this over and over and over again.

And yet at the same time often glorified by singular acts of monumental courage and bravery which leave us aghast and elevated.

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The museum’s challenges and mission

The museum is administered under the quiet authority of Allan Sinclair, a 37-year veteran of the museum and military veteran himself.

NIPPY. The Dassault Mirage III jet is a fighter aircraft developed and manufactured by French aircraft company Dassault Aviation. Picture: Michel Bega

Formerly a curator at the museum, then acting director briefly before his permanent appointment to director earlier this year.

He spoke to us of the museum, its challenges, and its mission. “Historically funded by the Department of Education but today as one of the Ditsong collective of 10 national museums we are funded by the Department of Sport, Arts & Culture.

“But sadly never quite enough and so must rely on visitors and other fundraising activities. We’re always battling for funds.

“There is regrettably a widespread ignorance of the museum and of what we offer so we look for every opportunity to communicate to schools and the public.

“The setup here is relatively simple. Reporting to me are five curators, each an expert in their field and responsible for the acquisition, display, and maintenance of their exhibits.

“You will find here uniforms, armaments, and firearms from wars and battles dating back to the Frontier Wars of the 1820s. And obviously, we have exhibits from the Zulu Wars, the Boer Wars, the First and Second World Wars, and even the Angolan War.

“Latterly we have also been collecting and exhibiting stuff from the liberation struggle. So we are pretty comprehensive.

“Our greatest collection is almost inevitably from the Second World War and we are extremely proud of the breadth of the exhibits.”

SEAT OF HISTORY. The museum is regarded as the spiritual and symbolic home of soldiers and veterans throughout the world. It opened in 1947. Picture: Michel Bega

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Unique military aircraft and naval exhibits

Sinclair indicates as an example a Mosquito aircraft one of the most versatile planes of the war.

“We have here a Mosquito attached to a SAAF Squadron. These were extensively used by the Royal Air Force (RAF) and SAAF as fighters, as bombers, and as fighter/ bombers.”

Unbelievably we learn they were made of plywood… “The one we have here is from the same squadron based in Italy – and identical to the plane – in which two SAAF pilots – Lieutenant Charles Barry and Lieutenant Ian McIntyre – flew an unarmed recce mission over German held Europe into eastern Poland.

“Their mission was to photograph the giant IG Farben chemical plant which was to be a potential target of the US Army Air Force. Barry was the pilot and the navigator was McIntyre.

“Adjacent to Farben was this large camp obviously there to provide forced labour. Flying at 35 000 feet to escape ground fire they decided after photographing IG Farben to photograph the camp and made two runs over the camp before turning for home.

“Their photographs were the very first ever taken of the notorious Auschwitz death camp. Their photographs were turned over to the USAAF.

“Clearly visible are the crematoria and the smoke curling up from them, the barracks, a garden, and much else.

“We’re also very proud of the only two-seater Messerschmitt night fighter still extant. The ME262 which we have here took part in the defence of Berlin. It also fought over Denmark and was captured by the RAF. ”

There too is the very first jet fighter ever manufactured. This Messerschmitt was produced very late in the war – too late to change the outcome. Another aircraft on display is the legendary Supermarine Spitfire. It stands side by side with its arch foe the Luftwaffe”s Messerschmitt.

For naval enthusiasts Sinclair points to a German one-man submarine designed to penetrate Allied harbours and naval bases. “Not many left”, he said. Its small size engenders immediate claustrophobia.

There is much, much more to this extraordinary repository of our turbulent military history and the timely reminder of the heroism of those who fought and died for the ideals of freedom and peace. Visit it, it is worth much more than its R50 entrance fee.

UNIQUE. The Messerschmitt two-seater night fighter. Staff call it their ‘Mona Lisa’. It’s as unique as the real Mona Lisa – the first jet engine fighter plane, manufactured by the Germans towards the end of World War II. The one the museum has is the only existing plane of its kind left. Picture: Michel Bega

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