COME FLY WITH ME. A girl waits for tourists to offer pony rides in Suzdal. It is home to a myriad of medieval buildings and monasteries, some dating back to the 14th century.
In the town of Suzdal, a few hours’ drive from their home city near Moscow, Natalia posed in front of a traditional domed Orthodox church while her husband snapped holiday photos.
“Lots of people go to Europe. But these are very difficult times,” the 58-year-old tourist said, snacking on a cucumber grown locally.
Like millions of Russians, Natalia and Igor spent their summer break at home this year, as Western sanctions and travel restrictions shut the country off from most European tourism destinations.
“We kept saying that when we were retired, we’d go round Russia,” said Natalia, who travelled from the city of Elektrostal about 150km away.
“Well, let’s just say that it was about that time,” she added.
Since the Kremlin’s full-scale offensive on Ukraine in February 2022, Russians have been barred from travelling to more than half a dozen European countries for tourism purposes.
With direct flights to the European Union banned and most Russian-issued credit cards no longer working in the bloc, many have opted to take a break closer to home.
“Russians, our compatriots, are now travelling more around the country, including to Suzdal,” director of the Suzdal Tour travel agency, Alexander Kiselev, said.
“This probably has to do with some of the difficulties regarding trips outside the country,” he added.
The number of Russians venturing abroad fell by 44% between 2019 and 2023, according to data from market analysis firm Statista, with travel also taking a hit from the pandemic.
Trips made by Russians within the country meanwhile hit a record 78 million in 2023, up a fifth compared to the year before, according to industry figures.
Home to a myriad mediaeval buildings and monasteries, some dating back to the 14th century, Suzdal is one of many Russian towns benefiting from this domestic tourism boom.
The town is famous for its cucumbers, which are used to make jams, lemonades and even ice creams.
“The nature is extraordinary. This river is wonderful,” said Natalia, standing on the banks of the Kamenka that flows through the town.
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During the day, the town’s narrow streets fill with tourists who come to take photos of its gold domed churches and walled kremlin, a word that refers to a number of historical fortresses found in Russian cities.
For some, travelling in Russia is the only practical option.
“Europe is too expensive now,” said 52-year-old Olga, as she posed for a photo on the banks of the Kamenka.
“I think our Russia is every bit as good,” she said, adding that she travelled with her daughter from the city of Ryazan about 200km to the south.
The government has also welcomed the flow of tourists, aiming to boost the number of domestic travellers to 140 million by 2030, twice as many as before the Covid pandemic.
Among the most popular domestic tourist destinations for Russians are Moscow, the Black Sea resort region of Krasnodar and the former imperial capital of Saint Petersburg.
While admiring the idyllic landscapes surrounding Suzdal, Natalia and Igor make no secret of their sadness at being unable to travel to Europe.
“We are grieving, we had a lot of plans for Europe, of course,” said Natalia. “But we are sure that the time of peace will come and we will come back.”
“And we will see Rome for the second time,” her husband Igor added.
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