Kenya’s Nairobi is now a perfect destination

At the end of 2019, myself, my wife, and our then 11-year-old twin boys spent just two days in Kenya’s capital, and we were all struck by similar failings, as our first impressions.

The first was just how congested the roads were, and the second was the lack of sufficient high-end hotels and other forms of accommodation.

Fast forward to the end of 2024 and my wife and I ditched the boys for a baecation in Nairobi and we were instantly impressed by the enormous changes regarding our previous bugbears.

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Infrastructure is key

Just after you get your passport stamped at immigration and enter any country – whether this is by land, water, or air – and you start using their infrastructure, you almost immediately form an admittedly incomplete and biased opinion on the nation.

Thoughts run to “if they have such a wonderful road network from Jomo Kenyatta Airport to the hotel, imagine how amazing this trip is going to be?”

It’s very much like when you visit someone’s house and the first thing you see are dirty dishes in the sink, or in a studio apartment – the bed is not made and the host offers you something to eat or drink.

You can only think about hatching an escape route and declining their food, pretending to have just eaten before leaving home.

Luckily, that is not the case in Nairobi. As of last August, the Nairobi Expressway was opened to the public and this has alleviated the city’s notorious traffic congestion.

The highway stretches almost 30km through the heart of the city, connecting the airport to the vibrant central business district, the National Museum, the Presidential Palace, and other tourist hotspots.

The $648 million (approximately R11.6 billion ) highway cuts travel time from the south to the west of the sprawling metropolis by more than 1,5 hours.

It took less than half-an-hour for us to be driven from the airport to the Kwetu Nairobi, Curio Collection by Hilton hotel in the upmarket Westlands area, a journey that would have taken more than two hours before the tolled expressway was built by the Chinese.

Kwetu is near the central business district, Gigiri, home to the United Nations headquarters, multiple embassies, and one of the largest expat communities in Africa, and on the edge of the famed Karura Forest.

After a four-hour flight from Joburg, we could not help but be impressed by the opposite of dirty dishes and unmade beds, as high-rise buildings were being constructed, positively contributing to Nairobi’s skyline.

It is obvious that multinational companies are not hatching an escape route from the country, but are confident this is a city and country worth investing in.

The last things you want on your mind while on holiday are whether or not there will be a constant supply of electricity if the water will make you ill, or if public transport is a nightmare. We had no such worries in Nairobi.

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High-end accommodation

There are times when you visit a certain family or friend and their hospitality tricks simply blow you away, leaving you craving for the next meet-up. This might be because they spray potpourri scented room spritz or they have a drink ready for you, they are just out to win your heart.

This is where Nairobi’s hospitality scene is, currently. Six years ago, global hotel brands in the city were far fewer, but this has changed drastically not only in Nairobi, but in other East African cities as well, such as Dar es Salaam, Addis Ababa, Marrakesh, Tunis, and Aduja.

Last year March, the Kwetu Nairobi, Curio Collection by Hilton Hotel welcomed guests for the first time, making them feel at home on all fronts. Kwetu, which means “our home” in Swahili, elegantly infuses its colonial history with modern design cues, while paying homage to its contemporary African DNA.

The stellar hotel offers 102 rooms and suites to cater to all sorts of nomads ranging from the King Guest configuration, Twin Deluxe, and the top-tier King One Bedroom Kwetu Suite with Balcony, which is a decadently appointed penthouse.

The name “Nairobi” comes from the Maasai phrase enkare nyrobi, which translates to “cool water”. Today, the hotel fulfils the role of being a source of refreshment and replenishment for business travellers, locals, and tourists alike.

The interiors merge historical details with a refined contemporary style. Many of the rooms and suites offer balconies and terraces, presenting stunning views of the forested landscape.

In African culture, they say a visitor should never pry into the host’s bedroom, but I implore you to request a room tour of the hotel, just so you can see all the types of bedrooms and suites on offer.

The hand-blown glass pendants and beautifully detailed furniture with bedside tables inspired by old suitcases with buckles and leather trims tell a wonderfully historic and inspiring tale of an ever-evolving Nairobi and Kenya.

Kwetu is made up of five interconnected buildings, each given Swahili names, further telling the story of feeling entirely at home, while being away from home.

Rafiki (friendship) is set up to be more social, gently encouraging you to mingle with fellow hotel guests and day visitors who can – not get enough of the Instagram-worthy swimming pool and oopen-airrestaurant.

If you are looking for a serene space for meditation or introspection, then Amani (tranquillity) is perfect for you.

It offers respite from the hustle and bustle of everyday life, allowing you to take in the local art and photography interspersed throughout the walls.

Perfect for a baecation…and going down on one knee…again

For the last 18 years, I have been declaring my love for my wife by proposing to her, always at different times of the year, so she can never know when to expect it.

On our romantic rendezvous to Kenya, I had plenty of options to choose from where I would go down on one knee, ask her to marry and place the 18th ring on her finger.

First up was the 117 square kilometre Nairobi National Park, located in the middle of the energetic city, proudly boasting rhino, zebra, antelope, reptiles, and over 500 species of birds.

As unique as the sanctuary is, I could not risk an inquisitive Masai giraffe (known for their extra-long necks) stealing the ring as I was about to hand it over to my wife.

The Sheldrick Wildlife Trust is world-renowned for its work rescuing and rehabilitating orphaned baby elephants and rhinos, so I did not want to take away the spotlight from Baraka, Toto, and Wamata, all very cute rescued orphans waiting to be rehomed soon.

I also could have proposed at the Giraffe Centre, but I settled on the most romantic setting in Nairobi, the penthouse of the Kwetu hotel, where the staff had secretly pre – pared red roses on the bed, bubbly and a delectable slice of cake, ready for the big question.

Luckily, I got a “Maybe. I will think about it….YES.” from a teary and emo tional wife. This is exactly what home is supposed to feel like.

*Exclusive offer: If you book a stay at Kwetu Nairobi, Curio Collection by Hilton by 28 February, you will receive a complimentary airport transfer, 15% off on all your food and beverages, 10% off your laundry bill, and free access to Karura Fores.

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