Hogsback: A beautiful mountain village in the Eastern Cape

Roughly a thousand kilometres from Gauteng, in the heart of the Eastern Cape, nestled high up in the densely forested Amatola Mountain range often shrouded in mist, lies the small village known as Hogsback.

There is much debate as to the origins of how this quaint little village obtained its name. Some believe it was named after Captain Hogg, a Commander of Fort Michell during the 1880s when British troops were stationed there.

Others insist it was named after the three peaks that overlook the village, that do somewhat resemble a hog’s back. It also happens to be a geographical term known as a Hogback, a long narrow ridge or series of hills with a narrow crest and steep slopes of nearly equal inclination on both flanks.

The three peaks can be seen from afar often bathed in golden sunlight or capped in snow.

Hogsback receives partial snowfall 11 months of the year, so if you time it right, you can visit a winter wonderland unlike any other place in South Africa.

A striking sunset on the way to Hogsback high up in the Amatola Mountain Range, Eastern Cape. Picture: Jacques Nelles

The area’s cool oceanic climate coupled with the often rainy and cloudy weather is not unlike the climate in England, giving you the sense of visiting an entirely different country.

Hogsback is home to one of South Africa’s oldest forests and one of only two grade one indigenous forests in South Africa, The Auckland Nature reserve.

The 2km² of thick forests is home to the extremely rare and also nearly extinct Cape Parrot, of which only an estimated 1 600 are left. There are butterflies and species of bamboo that only exist in Hogsback and then there are the delicate mosses and Old Man’s Beard which give the forests an otherworldly feel.

There is the myth that J.R.R Tolkien must have visited these parts as a child and to some extent the area inspired his vision of middle earth in the Lord of The Rings books. When walking through the quiet forests or atop any of the mountains along the many hiking trails, this isn’t hard to believe.

The Amatola Mountains have more waterfalls per square kilometre than anywhere else on earth, making it a nature lover’s paradise. The area offers many short walks or hikes that are easily accessible even for children.

The thick lush forests on an easy walk in Hogsback, Eastern Cape. Picture: Jacques Nelles

You will undoubtedly find yourself staring up at one of the many waterfalls that gives Hogsback its magical appeal.

For the more adventurous, there is the Amatola trail, reputedly one of the toughest and best hiking trails South Africa has to offer – starting at Maden Dam near King Williams Town and ending 100 kilometres and six days later in the mystical village of Hogsback.

Our trip to Hogsback, however, was more family orientated and although we arrived and left without seeing any snow, the forests and mountains and peaceful tranquillity of our stay left us in sheer awe of the wondrous beauty of Hogsback village.

The village is small and quite remote; there is only one grocery store along the main road and myriad restaurants, coffee shops and pubs to choose from that would appeal to every member of the family.

We stayed in the first building to be constructed high on the plateau in 1880 and which is simply known as the Hogsback Inn.

The Hogsback Inn was established in the 1880’s and was the first building to be constructed high up on the plateau, Hogsback, Eastern Cape. Picture: Jacques Nelles

The hotel was established in the 1880s and was the only building in the area. At the time, travellers would stay there for 10 cents a night and would wash themselves in the river which is now overlooked by the riverside suites, which were our rooms for the duration of the stay.

The suites, that were once stables, have been converted into spacious rooms with large open windows providing a magnificent view of the forests outside and, at an angle, the peaks of the overlooking mountain.

The rooms, that are separate to the main hotel, are furnished with antique furniture and each room is unique in its layout and colour schemes. There is a large fire place in each of the suites … great for warming your cold hands and providing a cosy and relaxing area to spend the night with the family over an assortment of board games and steaming cups of coffee.

Owners Graeme Sinclaire and Kerry Victor took over the then dilapidated hotel nearly two years ago and set forth to renovate the ancient space and breathe life back into it.

Most recently they have begun renovating two new self-catering units which were part of the old hotel rooms, giving them new wooden decks and braai areas, making it ideal for families wanting to cater for themselves.

The family around a fire at our luxury Riverside Suite at the Hogsback Inn, Eastern Cape. Picture: Jacques Nelles

They used what was already there, sanding away layers of old paint to find beautiful old Oregon pine doors and original wooden details in each of the rooms. This gives visitors an experience of what it must have been like when the hotel was originally built.

The Hogsback Inn is very family orientated, with their own forest walk and the first swimming pool that was ever built in the area that is used in summer.

There’s the stream flowing through the property and the original well that the hotel was built around provides each room with crystal clear spring water.

In the forest not too far from the hotel building there is a wedding reception area ideal for forest weddings with trees covered in moss and sunlight filtering through the tree canopies above.

Inside the main hotel building, the atmosphere in the lobby area and around the restaurant and bar is friendly and homey with the crackle of fires raging in every corner, providing warmth in stark contrast to the colder temperatures outside.

The library area is an ideal space to sit and read one of the books from their large collection – although you might forget to check the time and find yourself still comfortably curled up by the fireplace late into the night.

The homey interior of the Hogsback Inn Hotel where a fire is always burning, Hogsback, EasternCape. Picture: Jacques Nelles

The restaurant’s menu is an assortment of country-style wholesome dishes like shepherd’s pie and their home baked ciabatta bread with Camembert cheese and apple sauce at affordable prices.

The bar is also very much a local hangout where an array of interesting characters can be met around a pint of the local Hogsback brewed craft beer at the original bar countertop.

The hotel is popular for weddings or mountain biking groups and fully booked usually more than a year in advance during the annual Winter Celebration that takes place in July when snowfall is imminent.

The Hogsback Inn is an ideal base for bikers, hikers and general nature lovers and makes for a magical winter holiday destination for families keen to spend some time in the surrounding nature.

Pricing at the hotel and nearby restaurants varies to suit every pocket and the wonderful attractions in and around Hogsback will leave every family member with a lasting and loving impression of the Eastern Cape.

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