Five places to visit in Amman, Jordan

Fashion designer Nafsika Skourti from Amman, Jordan could have started her clothing line anywhere. Her Paris Fashion Week debut six years ago won over buyers from around the world.

Instead, Skourti, 32, and her sister, Stephanie, 30, headquartered their company in their hometown in 2014 “to teach Arab hands to create clothing with international appeal,” she said.

The sisters employ refugees from Iraq and Syria to embroider and bead their edgy designs, which riff on Middle Eastern stereotypes and ’90s pop culture. In their Amman, Jordan, atelier and boutique, you can find curios like rhinestone-adorned bras and her popular signature pants, called the Naughty Trousers.

Fashion designer Nafsika Skourti. Picture: Nadia Bseiso / The New York Times

Growing up, Nafsika Skourti recalls: “Amman was quaint and insular — we had maybe one cinema. I remember the first McDonald’s opening, that was a really big deal.” Since then, she said, “the city has grown exponentially”.

“The music scene is booming, there are a ton of pop-up parties, and there’s an entrepreneurial spirit that has given rise to coworking spaces, juice bars and other concepts that are new to this part of the world.”

Here, five places Skourti frequents for inspiration.

1. Off the Record

Off the Record, touted as Amman’s first speakeasy, is a favourite of the trendy set. Picture: Nadia Bseiso / The New York Times

Touted as Amman’s first speakeasy, this cocktail bar inside the Conroy Boutique Hotel is where trendy types gather during the colder months (it’s closed in the summer).

“They have a small but interesting menu, and even better cocktails. It’s an off-the-beaten-path kind of gem,” she said. House rules include “no name dropping” and “leave your ego at the door”.

2. Jasmine House

In the heart of old Amman, Jasmine House is an Italian restaurant specialising in Calabrian cuisine. Picture: Nadia Bseiso / The New York Times

Named for the trees on its terrace, this 1950s villa has been repurposed as an Italian restaurant that specialises in Calabrian cuisine.

“It’s a little piece of Italy in the heart of old Amman,” Skourti said. “They offer a small, seasonal menu and utilise the best local ingredients.”

3. Trinitae Soap Shop

Trinitae Soap Shop is a family-owned brand established in the 1930s. Picture: Nadia Bseiso / The New York Times

Started in the 1930s, this family-owned brand makes skincare and fragrance with salt and minerals from the Dead Sea, which are said to have healing properties. The shop, perched atop a hill, offers panoramic views of downtown Amman.

“The pomegranate body scrub is a staple in my bathroom,” Skourti said. Products range from about 4 to 40 Jordanian dinar, or about R90 to R890.

4. Tiraz Museum

Tiraz Museum is said to be the largest private collection of traditional Jordanian and Palestinian women’s wear in the world. Picture: Nadia Bseiso / The New York Times

In the home of fashion collector Widad Kamel Kawar, this museum with garments dating to the 19th century is said to be the largest private collection of traditional Jordanian and Palestinian womenswear in the world.

Kawar sometimes leads tours of the galleries, explaining how different styles of dress evolved.

“If you’re interested in fashion and design from the region, you must visit Tiraz,” Skourti said.

5. La Capitale

Ms. Skourti recommends La Capitale, an Art Deco French brasserie. Picture: Nadia Bseiso / The New York Times

With thick marble tabletops, warm orbs of light and lots of polished brass, this French brasserie inside the Four Seasons Amman serves as a tribute to Paris.

“The Art Deco space is incredible,” Skourti said. “Get the steak frites and enjoy the architecture.”

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