Bask in the magic of the Kgalagadi

Picture this: barely a metre away, just beyond the electric fence securing the patio of our chalet in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park’s Mata Mata rest camp, a group of ground squirrels are having fun frolicking and sparring.

Every so often they stop in their tracks, sit up pencil straight and look us squarely in the eye, expecting a morsel.

Close by, to the left of the patio, a black-backed jackal leisurely dozes off in the sand, not in the least bothered to break up the party next door.

In the distance, a giant monitor lizard – the biggest I have yet seen – strides doggedly from one end of a riverbed dotted with grasses, trees and a small water hole, to the other, clearly on a mission.

Completing this mesmerising cameo, several swarms of red-billed quelea (tiny red-beaked birds that often wreak havoc on crops) dive harmoniously and in unison from the trees to the water. Back and forth.

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This, together with its offering of endless red sand dunes, grasses such as dune bushman, gha and giant three-awn, camel thorn trees heavily laden with communal bird nests and majestic black-maned lions, sets the Kgalagadi apart.

It also completely revives body and soul, bringing you in touch and in tune with nature’s bounty on all levels.

In the Kgalagadi, one quickly discovers less is more. Unlike other well-known game parks in and around South Africa, there is no irritating hustle and bustle.

Not surprising, as visitors are strictly limited, so there is a long waiting list for accommodation in the rest camps, tented areas or more luxurious lodges.

Although the park does not boast the Big Five, it has much to offer.

Tranquillity reign supreme

Kgalagadi is relatively small, with just two main roads along its two rivers: the Nossob and Ayoub.

However, between these two mostly dry waterways, you will discover a scintillating array of predators, mammals, birds, bats, insects, trees and grasses that paint a remarkable and unforgettable canvas.

Learn anew to switch off completely and to bask in the magic of a full moon, myriad stars as far as the eye can see, and sublime sunrises and sunsets … while peace, quiet, and tranquillity reign supreme.

After entering the park at Twee Rivieren, completing the necessary documentation (and some shopping), and deflating the vehicle’s tyre pressure to 1.6 bar to reduce the impact on the road’s surface, we embarked on the long haul of over 4½ hours to Nossob camp, the second largest in the park.

Not surprisingly, the first game sighting was a big herd of gemsbok (oryx).  

While the vegetation is sparse, sightings are frequent, with scores of large herbivores such as blue wildebeest, springbok, eland, gemsbok, red hartebeest and smaller species like ground squirrels and meerkat, a wide variety of birds around every corner.

While we were concerned to see the first signs of the wildfires that erupted across the Northern Cape right into the Kgalagadi, between Nossob and Mata Mata during September and October, we soon learnt these regularly occur at this time of this year.

Natural phenomena, like lightning, we were told, are mostly to blame. While they appear to be devastating, they in fact revive the vegetation by stimulating new growth, replacing nutrients in the soil, assisting with the germination of seeds and reducing parasite loads.

The absence of fences on the Botswana side of the park allows animals to move away from the fires, only to return to nascent grass and vegetation.

Progressing along the road, we got our first “taste” of the special type of camaraderie among visitors in the park: besides courteously greeting each other when passing in vehicles or at the camp shop/registration office, many drivers enthusiastically waved to stop you and share news and pictures of exciting sightings.

This was how we learnt about two black-maned lions that were spotted walking on the road. That very night we were woken by several loud roars as they casually headed northwards, right next to the camp fence.

This was how we learnt about two black-maned lions that were spotted walking on the road. That very night we were woken by several loud roars as they casually headed northwards, right next to the camp fence.

The next morning, we spotted the two meneer taking a nap under trees not far from the road. The excitement was palpable when they briefly woke up, stretched their legs and surveyed their surroundings … just to doze off again, side by side.

While many visitors excitedly related their experience of coming “up close and personal” with other cat species, such as leopard and cheetah, many with lively offspring, sadly, the two males were our first and last “cat” sighting on our five-day visit.

At both Nossob and Mata Mata, our comfortable chalets were right next to the camp’s perimeter fence, offering unparalleled views of the adjacent plain, dry riverbed or watering hole.

At any time of day, we were treated to a variety of wildlife passing by, or by the antics of ground squirrels, meerkat and birds residing in close proximity.

And, like clockwork, after our afternoon game drive, we gathered on the patio for a braai, from where we could indulge in the exquisite night sky of the Kalahari “with a thousand stars”, savouring sips of Orange Rivers Cellars’ delightful Hedgehog wine.

This, along with other commodities you would find in your local supermarket, is available at both these camps’ small, but adequately stocked shops.

Remember, here you can also order roosterkoek (griddle cake) or home-baked bread from a local supplier. Sumptuous when served with jam and cheese.

In total, Kgalagadi accommodation options include six different camps of varying sizes, facilities and costs.

Electricity is provided by a generator 18 hours a day. Petrol and diesel are available, though during our visit there was (a slightly inconvenient) diesel shortage throughout the park.

Both these rest camps also sport a secluded hide where, if you are lucky, you can witness a kill, or simply sit for hours watching wildlife pass by.

At the respective reception centres, you will find a comprehensive exhibition of photographs displaying the animal and bird life in the area.

We later came across a few giraffes and a spotted hyena on a dune, a number of kori bustards on the plains, various eagle, vulture and bird species in flight or high up in the trees, and at the water holes, two secretary birds.

We were also fortunate to come across a range of snakes – from Cape Cobras, some defiantly rearing their hoods (alas, they speedily headed off into the grass before we could photograph them) to various viper species crisscrossing the road.

A spotted eagle owl nursing her babies in a tree fork was so perfectly camouflaged we nearly missed her.

The camp itself exhibits a variety of typical woodland birds, and more than once we heard the distinctive sound of a striped kingfisher calling from the adjoining riverbed.

All too soon our last day in the Kgalagadi arrived. At dawn on our final day, under a rising sun and billowing masses of smoke clouds filling the air to the east (caused by ever-spreading wildfires), we headed back.

Despite remnants of fires along most of the way, the same enchanting Kgalagadi tapestry that greeted us upon our arrival, unfolded to say goodbye.

Will we visit again? Is the Pope a Catholic?

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• Part and parcel of our Kgalagadi experience was our fabulous road trip and pitstops along the northbound R27 – from Philadelphia in the Western Cape right up to Ashkam in the Kalahari.

Not to be missed:

• De Tol, Piekenierskloof. Located on a historic piece of land along the Piekenierskloof Pass, De Tol is probably the oldest farm stall on the N7. The place offers wine and rooibos tea tastings, as well as sumptuous food at the deli.
• Bagdad Café. 25 km outside Van Rhynsdorp, this quaint road stall restaurant with memorabilia from yesteryear offers delicious, hearty meals.
• Die Hantam Huis-Restaurant. An authentic Cape Dutch homestead built by field cornet A van Wyk. The Hantam Huis complex in Calvinia is a collection of wonderfully preserved old buildings.
• Die Blou Nartjie guesthouse/ restaurant. Despite the chilly weather, on a Sunday night in September, this place, another Calvinia gem, was buzzing. Not to mention the delicious food and friendly service.
• Three Gables. Reflecting a peaceful, homely atmosphere, this charming guesthouse in Upington in set in a serene park-like garden with a balcony overlooking a vast garden and a sparkling circular pool. The tapas-style breakfast served on the balcony was divine.
• Kameelboomkoelte. Before entering the Kgalagadi at Twee Rivieren, consider staying over at Kameelboomkoelte’s superb, four-star self-catering chalets. A dream come true for owners Erick and Nina Meyer, the chalets are situated in the heart of the famous Kalahari Red Dune Route of the Southern Kalahari. For an unforgettable dinner, do yourself a favour and order a delectable meal of, among other things, Kalahari lamb stew and milk tart from local resident Eloni Naudé.

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