Mediterranean food tastes of life. Of sun, fun and friends. And perhaps just a hint of garlic. So it’s not surprising to sit opposite a Greek oke in a Joburg Portuguese-style restaurant and contemplate some grilled calamari, panfried chourizo sausage and chicken livers drowning in delicious peri-peri sauce.
“I love my food. And I love the food business,” says Manny Nichas.
It’s a simple statement of his life of three decades in the restaurant business in which he has made his name not only as the welcoming “mine host”, but also as an astute businessman running some of the most successful food franchises in this country.
For 13 years, he was the CEO of Ocean Basket, the seafood restaurant chain which is now not only established across South Africa but has also become one of South Africa’s most successful food business exports overseas, after Nando’s.
Now, he is CEO of the Mozambik chain of Mozambican restaurants and has plans for expansion.
So, the ideal job, no?
Actually, no… unless you are really passionate, says Nichas.
“A lot of people who go into the restaurant business think: ‘Hey, I love food, I can cook; I love people and I love entertaining. A restaurant is the perfect business for me’. They don’t realise that the hours are long and most of the time you are working, it’s your mates and family who are going out, partying and enjoying themselves…”
Nichas says it’s no surprise that many restaurants go out of business quicker than any other start-ups – a year in Joburg is considered a long time in the food trade.
“It’s a really tough business. You have to be good everywhere – front of house, dealing with people; in the kitchens keeping an eye on the team; in the office balancing the books and ensuring you’ve got the stock you need.”
It saddens Nichas that some many eateries start out well and then quickly fade as quality declines: “A eating out experience should be one you want to have again,” he adds.
The Mozambik chain aims to have a sizeable chunk of its income from repeat business.
“I also believe that, because we are not about turning over tables and people can relax and enjoy themselves – as they would at home – that people will associate us with a good time.”
Nichas says that, since he started out in the business back in the 90s – after a five-year stint in the then defence force – he has seen the eating out scene change dramatically.
“South Africans have always loved to go out to restaurants for that special treat … and they love their food. But, these days, when you consider the strict drunken driving laws, you can see a change in the way people do things.
“If there is not a designated driver, then people tend to drink a lot less. That means they don’t stay as long, which affects restaurant turnover and profits.”
At Mozambik, in an effort to encourage people to linger and enjoy their food – as you would if you were sitting in a Greek tavern, Spanish bodega or Portuguese adega – they are encouraging patrons to use ride-hailing services or companies which will provide drivers to take you home.
Nichas says the industry is very sensitive to the macro-economic climate and the way things are at the moment, when times are tight financially for many people, the line between success and failure is very blurred.
So, he’s angry about recent suggestions to parliament from the Financial and Fiscal Commission that municipalities be allowed to levy new taxes to help raise revenue. Included among these are “amusement taxes” which could be applied to eating out or to movie tickets.
It’s a move which would hit the restaurant business hard and which could lead to retrenchments, he says.
“The restaurant business is a major employer for black South Africans. And it’s a great place to get started on a business career. You learn about marketing as a waiter by giving good service and earning tips. You learn about logistics by helping do stock. You learn about accounting, putting bills together.”
Nichas says a number of the black employees at Mozambik have taken advantage of the opportunity and “I have a few people at head office in the franchising division who have worked their way up from waiter or even runner [the guy who brings in the stuff from the delivery trucks].”
Now, time to put him on the spot… Greek heritage versus Mozambican/ Portuguese food – so what’s your favourite dish?
There’s a bit of thought which goes into this and finally he chooses: Avgolemono. That’s a Greek chicken lemon soup. If someone whose life is food loves it, maybe I should try it some time…
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