Grootbos adventures in Gansbaai, the great white shark capital of the world

The difference between a “germ” (bacteria) and a virus is, simplistically speaking, that there is no easy cure once the virus beastie sinks its hooks into you.

I should know: I tested positive for “roadtripping” in my twenties and have never been able to purge it from my system. Lockdown is definitely not part of the cure.

The Covid pandemic caused complications until the National Coronavirus Command Council said business travel could resume. This suited me fine because travel-writing is how I make a living and those who accommodated me could honestly say they were engaged in pre-emptive marketing.

Grootbos Private Nature Reserve in the Western Cape’s Overberg is an establishment I first visited years ago with two actors who have a passion for travelling the world on motorcycles.

My return was conducted in similar fashion; I followed coastal roads on a new Suzuki DL1050 VSTROM from Muizenberg in Cape Town’s “deep south” for about 160km via Gordons Bay, Kleinmond and Hermanus … arriving at Grootbos elated by the spectacular ride.

Picture: Jim Freeman

Grootbos is located between Stanford and Gansbaai, which bills itself as the “great white shark-viewing capital of the world”.

Regardless of the truth of this claim, Gansbaai’s economy owes much to nature-lovers’ fascination with this apex ocean predator. The shark-diving industry is, however, in a decline that owes little to current travel prohibitions even though 90% of thrill-seeking tourists come from abroad.

“In 2016,” says Wilfred Chivell, CEO of Marine Dynamics and founder of the Dyer Island Conservation Trust, “85,000 people came to Gansbaai to see great whites and whales. This number dropped to 45,000 last year, mainly because we’re running out of sharks …”

At the time the shark-viewing craze was hitting its peak, a research project conducted by Stellenbosch University warned that “the South African white shark population is in double jeopardy”.

“Not only do these sharks have the lowest genetic diversity of all white shark populations worldwide, there are also only between 353 to 522 individuals left.”

The study said the population was 52% smaller than estimated in previous studies and drew the conclusion that South Africa’s great white sharks were heading for extinction “if the situation stays the same”.

Picture: Jim Freeman

One of the reasons for my midweek trip was to ask whether the situation had improved or deteriorated. Even before my conversation with Chivell, I was told things were a lot worse.

Marine biologist Alison Towner Pictures: Jim Freeman arrived in Gansbaai from Britain 14 years ago and is currently completing her doctoral thesis at the University of Cape Town using tagging and tracking data to determine great white shark movement.

“Not many people realise just how threatened great whites are in this part of the world. Things really changed in Gansbaai in February 2017, when two orcas moved into the area and started taking the livers out of sharks.”

Numbers, already depleted by commercial long-line fishing, decreased further but, she stresses, the phenomenon is not unique to Gansbaai or even South Africa: killer whales moving into areas to target different prey can be a consequence of over-fishing.

Towner is extremely reluctant to pronounce on the possible demise of Gansbaai’s great white sharks, saying there is no such thing as a “local” or “resident” population.

“The animals that have been counted in this bay are mobile and move along the Southern African coastline from Namibia to Mozambique and throughout sub-Antarctic waters.

“Gansbaai has gone quiet but go to the Eastern Cape and try to tell shore-anglers that great white sharks are becoming extinct; they’ll laugh at you.

“I’ve just returned from the sardine run off KwaZulu-Natal … there were white sharks aplenty there too, a thousand kilometres away from here!”

Picture: Jim Freeman

Two hours later we’re in Lwazi, looking for sharks for Towner to tag. Crew members “chum” incessantly and the marine-biologist trawls with lines baited with fish heads. Nothing’s biting but hordes of gulls and a solitary skua.

Towner gets a message on her mobile: “Guys are seeing more than 20 sharks in Mossel Bay,” she says wryly.

Truth is, Gansbaai tourism and hospitality is not dependent upon sharks exclusively for its survival.

The following day was the start of the Women’s Day long weekend and intra-provincial travel restrictions had been relaxed. Tourists from the Western Cape were out in reasonable force and those who went to sea were greeted by the sight of whales immediately after leaving harbour.

Moreover, exceptional winter rains meant that this part of the Cape Floral Kingdom was displaying at its best.

While Grootbos isn’t very large, it offers phenomenal fynbos species diversity, says field guide Christoff Longland, who’s been working the area for over a decade and can be regarded as something of an expert.

Picture: Jim Freeman

The Cape Floral Kingdom covers about 91,000km² and contains an estimated 7,500 fynbos species, of which more than 800 can be found on Grootbos’ scant 2,500ha … much to surprise of Cape Nature and the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens.

“We conducted a new census of species found on the reserve during lockdown and discovered a little plant that was new to science and which seems to be unique to Grootbos,” enthuses Longland.

There are two five-star eco-lodges on the property*, Garden and Forest, the latter being larger and newer. Suites are surrounded by fynbos and birdlife is spectacular.

My arrival disturbed a rock kestrel that had been sheltering under the eaves to escape a sudden shower.

Fine dining is provided by Chef Benjamin Conradie and sommelier Nicole Croome presides over a cellar stocked with some of the region’s most delectable wines.

Talking of wining and dining, anyone spending more than one night at Grootbos (or every evening if you’re staying in Gansbaai itself) would do well to visit Mama Rita, a cheerful Italian-style restaurant. I was astonished to find a place serving such wonderful food.

*Grootbos Private Nature Reserve will be offering discounted rates for South African travellers from Monday. For more information, check the website at www.grootbos.com

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