One of three SA wine estates named among world’s top 50 vineyards

A couple of months ago, I received the sweetest telling-off of a long career. Just a day after I’d described Creation wine estate outside Hermanus as “little-known” in a story, I received a chiding message from co-owner Carolyn Martin: “It’s not so much that we’re little-known,” she said, “as that Creation is a well-kept secret.”

The distinction was subtle but important, she said. Creation was very well known to discerning wine drinkers but unknown to the broader public simply because it was totally unaware of its estate’s existence close to the ridge of the Hemel-en-Aarde valley.

Hemel-en-Aarde translates from Afrikaans to “Heaven and Earth” but, honestly, it would be more accurate to call it “Heaven on Earth” because it is one of the most stunningly beautiful landscapes in South Africa.

The fact that world-class wines are produced along its length adds immeasurably to its allure. Creation (www.creationwines. com) was one of three South African wine estates (the other two were Delaire Graff and Vergelegen) named among the world’s top 50 vineyards.

The trio were among 1 500 nominated wineries from 17 countries and were adjudicated by a panel of nearly 500 leading wine aficionados, sommeliers and luxury travel writers from across the world representing the World’s Best Vineyards (WBV) academy.

According to WBV: “The diversity is incredible. There are modern architectural wonders; there are small boutique wineries. There are ancient cellars, modern restaurants and stunning wedding venues.

“All are worth visiting. All offer dazzling views. And all offer terrific wines!”

Further plaudits came from British Master of Wine Tim Atkin who, in his seventh annual South Africa Special Report published in early September this year, maintained South Africa “was making the greatest wine in its history”.

He awarded the 2018 Creation Art of Chardonnay as well as the 2018 Art of Pinot Noir scores of 96 points out of 100. The award-winning journalist and author also adjudged Creation as having “the best cellar door experience” in the country.

Despite the fact the plants at Creation are all indigenous species, the garden has a Mediterranean feel imparted by the presence of provocative sculptures by Paarlbased Nanette Ranger, mainly of woodland nymphs (with the odd satyr leering from the fynbos).

Picture: Jim Freeman

The contrast between European culture and African flora tells the story of Creation’s genesis and winemaking history; it was the first vineyard in the valley to produce a Bordeaux-style blend and to bottle Grenache, Semillon and Viognier as single-varietals.

Creation’s co-owner, Carolyn’s Swiss-born husband Jean-Claude (everyone calls him “JC”), decided to become a winemaker while spending school holidays working in his grandfather’s vineyards.

After first completing viticulture studies, JC qualified as a winemaker at age 20 in 1995. Carolyn was born into the renowned Finlayson winemaking family.

Dr Maurice Finalyson was a Scottish pathologist who started the “dynasty” by acquiring Hartenberg in the Stellenbosch district. Hartenberg is where Carolyn’s father Walter began his career in wine … as did his five-year-old daughter.

“Guests arrived at the farm one day and my grandmother, who did the cellar tours and tastings, was nowhere to be found,” she recalls. “So I showed them round.”

The family moved on to Blaauwklippen before founding Glen Carlou where Carolyn’s brother David, himself a winemaker, joined the business before starting Edgbaston when Glen Carlou was sold. Walter’s brother Peter, of Bouchard-Finlayson, has been growing Pinot Noir in the Hemelen-Aarde for nearly 30 years and is a founder member of the Cape Winemakers Guild.

Carolyn had no intention of moving into the wine industry and moved to London to study brand design. Life had other plans, though; she met JC and they married in 1999.

JC recalls their move to the Hemel-en-Aarde: “We’d been coming to South Africa since 1999 to visit Carolyn’s parents in Paarl and also to Hermanus to see her uncle Peter.

“We had just lit the fire for a braai at Peter’s home in February 2002 when he told me the best farm in the valley was for sale. It was used as grazing for sheep and the owner was struggling to sell.”

Carolyn takes up the story: “The two of them jumped into Peter’s Land Rover and drove off without a word to the rest of us. When they returned nearly two hours later, JC told me he had bought a farm.”

The name does not only refer to Creation’s location in the Hemelen-Aarde but also to the fact this showcase vineyard had to be built from scratch.

“We started by immediately planting vines on 22 of the 35 hectares. We bought one of the neighbouring farms a couple of years ago and now have about 60ha under vine,” says JC.

Picture: Jim Freeman

Probably the main reason Creation has flown under the radar for so long is that the upper section of the R320 that runs up the valley from Hermanuspietersfontein to Caledon was a dog to travel.

It was only fairly recently, after interminable years of road works, that wine-travellers began venturing in numbers past Hamilton Russell, Bouchard Finlayson, Newton Johnson, Sumaridge, La Vierge and Ataraxia.

Atkin’s observations about the “cellar door experience” do not begin to do justice to the sublime food and wine pairings that are largely inspired by Carolyn, who possesses a superlative nose and palate.

Lead item on the menu is the Heritage Story of Creation – a sixcourse pairing (including dessert) with eight wines for R695 – with vegan, vegetarian and pescatarian options. There are also small plate, gelato, chocolate, charcuterie, cheese, vegan and non-alcoholic pairings.

My imagination was captured by the 10am Brunch Pairing (R510), billed as “a festive glass of Creation’s Elation MCC, followed by a scrumptious five-course breakfast – each course perfectly paired with a premium Creation wine”.

The pairings are well explained, presentation is magnificent and booking is essential. Unfortunately, the only accommodation on Creation is the luxurious Voormanshuis, which sleeps two and has an enormous picturewindow overlooking the original vineyard.

There is, in fact, a dearth of accommodation in the Hemelen-Aarde but many quality guesthouses and B&B establishments in nearby Onrust River, Voelklip and Hermanus itself if you want to spend a few days taking in the fleshpots of the valley and the greater Walker Bay area.

I had the pleasure of resting my somewhat-liquefied bones at the chic Cape Cod-style Ocean Eleven Guest House in the Westcliff area of Hermanus. It’s close to the heart of the town and looks back along the coastal cliffs towards the old harbour (www.oceaneleven.co.za), making for spectacular dawn and sunset views regardless of the weather.

Sitting out on my private patio, watching the sun go down with a glass of rather fine brandy in hand, I could only think: yeah, this is heaven on earth

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