Watch: Sadie’s Kosher Style Deli reopens after 16 years to once again offer freshly prepared Jewish meals

Birnam Food, an authentic Jewish deli, was opened in 1978 by Sadie Goldreich and her husband, Rudolph.

Now 16 years since it closed in 2005, the deli is being reopened as Sadie’s Kosher Style Deli by the great-grandson Joshua Simon. Simon is bringing back one of the first employees in the family, Jeanette Kunene.

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Certainly, many employees have been honoured with ’employee of the month’ titles and company loyalty is well acclaimed anywhere. Yet, for Kunene, coming back to cook at this restaurant is rooted in far more than just loyalty, but her love for kosher food and a deeply rooted relationship with the family.

Kunene started working at the restaurant when she was just 21 years old. “Everything I know about baking and cooking I learnt from Sadie,” Kunene says.

“I never attended culinary school. When I first arrived, I struggled, but I was determined to learn because I enjoyed the food.”

Kunene continued working for the family even after the passing of Sadie, however, the restaurant closed in 2005.

For years she worked multiple jobs, but she still maintained her love for cooking. “I even cook the Jewish food at home, for my children; some of them love it, while the others don’t,” Kunene said.

“I love the food for my children because I find kosher cooking methods healthier.”

Today, Kunene has taught us about how kosher food is prepared, from ‘red and green’ kitchens to how to make matzo and challah. Cooking is Kunene’s comfort and pride. She is loved by all the other cooks in the kitchen and appreciated for not just her age, but her skill.

Kunene’s time being trained by Sadie made her become well respected for cooking kosher cuisine. Simon, the great-grandson, called her first when the restaurant reopened 16 years later.

Kunene, now 72 years old, was more than pleased to get back on board in helping bring back her former employer’s legacy. Kunene said she had been waiting to get a call like this from Simon.

“The shop would get so busy, I would work with Joshua Simon on my back,” said Kunene.

Back then, kosher food was not easy to find, and Birnam Food became popular amongst the Jewish community.

Kunene says cooking kosher food is not an ordinary job. Kosher cuisine is not just about skilful cooking; you must also respect Jewish customs. “They pay me well because they know not everyone can do this job well, respecting all the customs.”

In the past, finding an African who cooks kosher food was not common, but today South Africa is a diverse country, not just in race and culture, but in religion and cuisines.

Kunene’s story is an example of South Africa’s diversity. Seeing someone preparing food from a completely different culture to their own is something not too uncommon. However, the cultural shift is certainly recognisable. “I may be African, but I love Jewish food”, said Kunene.

The original Birnam Food started with Simon’s great-grandmother Sadie Goldreich and her husband, Rudolph, selling sandwiches in the Johannesburg CBD. Later, Sadie took the Jewish recipes under her sleeve and started her deli dream on Corlett Drive.

Simon, who was about four years old when Birnam Food was operating, has always wished to revive the deli.

Today, Birnam Food opened its doors as Sadie’s Kosher Style Deli, located in Birdhaven, in The Gourmet Grocer.

South Africa has made indulging in all kinds of cuisines inclusive and hassle-free. One can find freshly prepared Jewish meals at the corner of their street, such as in stores like The Gourmet Grocer.

Sadie’s Kosher Style Deli is as authentic as it gets. Some of the popular meals that Simon’s grandmother originally prepared can be found on the menu today, prepared with the same love and hands.