Glow, don’t mask: Expert reveals the natural beauty revolution taking over

Makeup doesn’t have to be a mask you stick on and wipe off. Instead, it’s all about the accentuation of natural beauty, said Marco Louis, Nars South Africa’s head makeup artist. And the natural look is everywhere, from the catwalk to glossy cutouts this autumn going into winter.

“Skin is a big story now,” he said. “Even on international runways, we see either a bold eye or lip, but the real focus is skin – how it looks, feels, and is cared for. Designers are showcasing glass-like complexions, and consumers are following suit.”

Gone are the days of mask-like coverage that obscures the natural texture Louis added. Instead, the emphasis is on products that enhance rather than conceal. “The goal is to look like yourself, but better,” he said. “It’s about radiance, health, and that effortless glow.”

This change is particularly evident in South Africa, where different regions approach makeup differently. “In Johannesburg, women love a full face,” Louis said. “Think more coverage and sculpted features.

On the other hand, Cape Town leans into a fresher, just-off-the-beach aesthetic, with sheer bases and subtle bronzing.” Joburg will eventually catch up, he added.

Joburg will catch up with naturals

This autumn season’s approach is less about colour explosions and more about refining techniques. “It’s about placement,” he said. “It’s knowing where to apply highlighter, so it mimics natural light on the skin, using a bronzer strategically rather than all over.

These small adjustments make a big difference.” While the beauty industry often also borrows seasonal colour palettes, Louis suggested, “Think deep berries and smoky hues for winter. But the biggest trend is timeless, healthy skin.”

Achieving this polished yet natural effect requires a hybrid approach, said Louis. “People are realising that makeup and skincare are no longer separate entities. Almost everything now has skincare benefits to some degree,” he said. “Even powders contain ingredients that care for the skin, preventing oxidation and improving texture over time.”

Social Media, Louis said, has pushed the beauty industry towards exaggerated techniques, but consumers are beginning to favour a more nuanced approach. “People have done the circus rounds of Instagram makeup. They’ve done extreme contouring and over-the-top baking, and now they want something wearable. They’re realising that if you consult a professional, achieving that polished, fresh look isn’t complicated or expensive,” he said. “It’s just about knowing what works for your skin.”

Know what works for your skin

“It’s not about piling on products,” he added. “Rather about using the right ones in the right way,” he said. “When someone tells you your makeup looks nice, that’s not really a compliment. You want them to say, ‘Wow, you look amazing. You want them to ask what’s different?’ That’s the goal. To enhance, not overpower.”

For people used to heavier foundations, changing a look to a more natural appearance can be daunting. “I always tell clients that it’s not about stripping back completely but refining application. You can still achieve a perfected base without it looking heavy,” he said. “It’s why artistry in make-up is important. We don’t just sell products; we teach people how to use them to achieve the effect they’re after.”

Ask the experts

Louis said that at centres like Arc in Mall of Africa, qualified make-up artists and skincare specialists advise clients. “I often do store visits and consultations with experts is becoming increasingly important,” Louis said. “Not just about what is trending and what may be available on the shelf, but also to learn the latest techniques and regimes that may benefit your skin.”

Beyond the face, body makeup is making a popular return. “Cleavage is back,” he said. “We’re not seeing as much focus on exaggerated curves or contouring the body, but rather on ensuring that any exposed skin looks as polished as the face. It should match and blend seamlessly. Whether it’s evening skin tone or adding subtle highlights to collarbones and shoulders, body makeup is a thing for this season, too.”

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