Lingerie’s evolution holds up a social mirror

Lingerie is sexy, but it can also be simple and practical. It can be everything in between, or it’s done without by the brave. But whichever way you look at it – and everybody looks – undergarments have always matched the world’s mood. They read the room, steam it up, or cool it down.

Cultural shifts and women’s evolving roles have marked the journey of the bra and the panty, from the suffocating corsets of the early twentieth century to the minimalist bralettes of today. Lingerie holds up a mirror, not just to fashion and attitudes toward femininity, but also to present past attitudes toward sexuality and self-expression.

The 1920s marked a seismic shift in women’s fashion, as the flapper era ushered in a new age of freedom. Women cast off the body prisons of corsets that had dominated the previous decades in favour of silk step-ins and flowing chemises.

Fausta Urte Geigaite, a fashion expert and makeup artist from the website Peaches and Screams, said the 20s were a key moment for women’s fashion. This is when lingerie began to reflect a woman’s independence and desire for freedom. Geigaite said that this period set the stage for lingerie to become a tool of empowerment as well as an intimate expression of personal style.

A tool for empowerment

The Great Depression of the 1930s followed the Roaring Twenties and brought economic hardship, yet surprisingly, it also saw a rise in luxurious lingerie. Elaborate designs and sumptuous fabrics became a form of escapism, allowing women to indulge in a touch of elegance amidst the bleakness of daily life.

Barbara Santini, a psychologist and relationship adviser at Peaches and Screams, noted how lingerie can be a form of self-expression despite the odds. “During times of adversity, women often turned to fashion as a form of self-expression and psychological relief, which was evident in the luxurious lingerie trends of the 1930s,” she said.

The Second World War smashed sexy to the bone and ushered in a focus on practicality, with women’s underwear becoming simpler and more functional. The demands of the war effort required unrestrictive and easy-to-wear clothing, leading to a rise in the popularity of stockings and separates. Undies in the 1940s showed women’s changing roles, prizing utility over glamour.

Interestingly, the 50s saw a return to glamour after the war dust had settled. The coveted hourglass figure debuted, and lingerie played a key role in its propagation. Marilyn Monroe and other icons of the time popularised shapewear designed to draw waists and enhance busts; it was the feminine ideal of the time, Geigaite said.

“Designs were both functional and incredibly stylish. She added that lingerie during this decade was as much about shaping the body as it was about showcasing it.

Shaping and showcasing the body

Counterculture and the exuberance of youth influenced the 60s. The decade saw the rise of pantyhose and vibrant, flower-child patterns in underwear. This era embraced new and experimental fashions, with lingerie designs reflecting the playful and rebellious. It showed the sexually liberated spirit of the time.

Undies then became political. The feminist movement of the 70s challenged traditional clothing standards. Although the “burning of bras” was more symbolic than literal, it marked a significant departure from restrictive lingerie. “The 70s were crucial for women’s liberation,” said Santini. “And this movement was reflected in the lingerie choices of the time, promoting comfort and rejecting restrictive norms.”

Then, Jane Fonda ushered in the era of fitness. High-cut underwear and sporty, visible knickers marked the 80s. This era celebrated the athletic female form with functional and fashionable lingerie.

Fashion expert and image consultant Lynn McMaster explained that the era marked the beginning of the athleisure trend. “Sports bras eventually became a staple not just for workouts but as part of everyday fashion. This was the start of women embracing comfort and functionality without compromising style,” she said.

Hello Boys – the Wonderbra campaign that changed it all

And who can forget “Hello Boys”, the Wonderbra campaign that funded a million fantasies? Model Eva Herizgova and the Wonderbra dominated the 90s, revolutionising the lingerie landscape by enhancing cleavage and creating a bold silhouette. McMaster said the emphasis was on sex appeal, with lingerie becoming a key element in fashion statements.

Attention moved to the derrière in the early part of the new millennium. The visible thong trend and playful, provocative styles dominated the knicker universe. Geigaite said, “The 2000s challenged conventional boundaries, with lingerie becoming a bold fashion statement. This reflected a shift towards a more overtly sexual and playful aesthetic.” This decade highlighted the growing role of lingerie as outerwear that Madonna first experimented with two decades before.

McMaster said what followed was a period, as in art, of minimalism. The 2010s saw bralettes leading the charge. She said these garments celebrated comfort and style and aligned with the decade’s emphasis on self-love and body positivity.

McMaster added, “The braless trend that took off in the 2010s continues to grow today. It is not just about comfort, but also about a deeper emotional connection. A relationship women have with their bodies and their underwear. Lingerie became a statement of self-confidence and independence.” Another era, another silhouette change.

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