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By Carien Grobler

Deputy Digital Editor


Shein: Should we be willing to pay the true cost?

While Shein may offer cheap prices, the true cost is one we shouldn't be willing to pay.


In October 2022, the Chinese fast-fashion giant Shein was once again embroiled in allegations of unethical business practices, adding to its extensive history of wrongdoing. These include copying small businesses, accusations of modern slavery, and violations of labour laws.

Despite these controversies, approximately 9 000 new items of clothing allegedly containing toxic chemicals were reportedly being uploaded to their website as we speak.

Meanwhile, individuals on TikTok continue to showcase their #sheinhauls, highlighting a disconnect between awareness of Shein’s practices and consumer behaviour, reports Elle.

Shein’s claims of practicing fair labour and campaigning against unethical practices while asserting above-average wages are contradicted by their reported production of one million new garments in a single day.

When examining Shein’s environmental practices alone, sustainable and ethical fashion brand Good on You highlights several key issues:

  • Shein’s supply chain lacks certification by labour standards ensuring worker health and safety, living wages, or other labour rights.
  • There is no evidence that Shein ensures payment of a living wage in its supply chain.
  • Shein uses few eco-friendly materials.
  • There is no evidence of meaningful action taken by Shein to reduce or eliminate hazardous chemicals.
  • Shein lacks a policy to minimize the impacts of microplastics, among other issues.

ALSO READ: Greenpeace warns of Shein clothes containing ‘hazardous chemicals’

A negative reputation

Shein has gained a negative reputation due to various controversies. The e-commerce brand has been accused of severely underpaying workers, exploiting and plagiarizing designs from emerging creatives, and reportedly selling items featuring Nazi symbols. Additionally, garments produced by Shein were found to contain unsafe levels of toxic chemicals.

Moreover, reports surfaced of “help me” messages allegedly discovered on the labels of Shein’s clothes, purportedly left by workers in their manufacturing factories. While Shein dismissed these notes as “confusion,” they have yet to address the claims of worker exploitation.

Appalling working conditions

A new documentary, Untold: Inside the Shein Machine, presented by reporter Iman Amrani, exposes the appalling working conditions in Shein’s factories. This groundbreaking documentary takes viewers behind the scenes of Shein’s operations, providing the first-ever undercover investigation into the Chinese factories where the clothing is produced.

The film delves into the true cost of Shein’s inexpensive clothing, highlighting the human toll behind the creation of a polyester crop top that costs less than your morning iced oat latte. Through raw and unfiltered footage, the documentary reveals the harsh realities faced by factory employees, who endure excessive workloads and receive tiny wages – sometimes earning less than $20 per week.

Despite these revelations, the documentary questions why, when confronted with the staggering number of #sheinhauls flooding our TikTok feeds – totaling $6.9 billion – our focus seldom shifts to the human beings behind the garments.

In 2021, the Swiss-based industry watchdog group Public Eye published a report exposing unethical working conditions.

An anonymous researcher informed the watchdog that employees were required to work every day of the week after dinner, with only one day off per month.

Poor labour conditions represent just one facet of Shein’s unethical practices. Despite their claims of “turning to sustainable practices and fabrics,” there is no substantiated evidence regarding the traceability of their fibers or the sourcing of their purportedly “recycled fabrics.”

While Shein may offer cheap prices, the true cost is one we shouldn’t be willing to pay.

NOW READ: Despite the controversy, fast fashion is still quite popular

@twinbrett Documentary available Monday Channel 4 Untold: “Inside the Shein Machine”. Also good article in iPaper from Rob Hastings. We really need to stop Shein being sold in U.K. stop our incessant need for ultra ff and instead demand an end to exploitation of labour forces #shein #fastfashion #exploitation #garmentfactory #twinbrett #fashion #sheinhaul #boohoo #zara #plt ♬ original sound – Brett Staniland

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