Leather reimagined: From punk roots to festival fashion

If you’re a vegan, now is the time for a carrot break, because vegan leather, or plastic when shedding marketing speak, can never match the classic sexy, punk rock appeal of real cow hide. Whether it’s a jacket, a handbag or satchel, nothing beats the smell, the stretch, the breathability and the downright sensual nature of a leather garment or accessory.

Leather clothing was once the uniform of the rebellious and the outcasts, goths, skinheads, and punks, and even the Village People at the opposite end of angry. But it has transcended its underground origins to claim a spot in the mainstream, evergreen despite the publicly drive to don in what could be considered several garbage bags sew together.

As South Africans reawaken to festivals like Rocking The Daisies or the recent Burning man, leather clothing and accessories have become an integral part of dressing up for a party. Usually, less is more, and super tight leather pants, waistcoats, and bikini tops along with the odd set of leather undies now star in the festival fashion parade. From studded chokers to coats, each piece holds a story, a snippet of the raw, unapologetic spirit of punk and goth subcultures along with a healthy dose of rock and roll grit. 

Fashion-conscious festival goers flock to leather stores

Mike King of Add-Vintage in Randburg said that while bikers still comprise the bulk of his customer base, a growing number of younger and fashion-conscious festival goers are flocking to his store either to grab a vintage looking bag or accessory, some leather pants or shorts or a tassel or studded waistcoat which, he said, has emerged as stock standard party clobber.

Festival fashion, unlike the hardness of punk or the toughness of rock and roll, lies somewhere at an opposite extreme. Sex appeal has become more Jim Morrisson like, overtly sexual but with a healthy measure of conservatism. Donning leather is a statement in itself.

It’s a contradiction in terms, almost like forgetting that a lot of vegan leather is in fact a biproduct of fossil fuels. Go figure. 

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Pair a leather waistcoat with thick-thread detail or tassels, shirtless or contrasted with a visible and dainty bralette with a pair of skinny jeans, in rocker blue, or go all out skin with a double whammy that legs-up your shape in a pair of leather pants. They must be tight, too, because leather just doesn’t look good when it’s baggy around the buns and thighs. A bespoke waistcoat at Add-Vintage requires an investment of between R 500 and R 2000, dependent on the garment, pants are a bit pricier.

As winter approaches, long leather coats also come into play, not just as practical attire to shut out the dry highveld chills, but as statements of style and substance. These coats, with their imposing presence, unmatched warmth and a striking aesthetic that stands out in any setting.

“If I make something for you, it’s yours for life,” he said. 

The commercialization of punk and goth fashion into festival clobber has not diluted the essence of these counterculture styles; instead, it has expanded their reach, allowing a new generation to interpret and adapt these trends to their personal narratives. “This is how we do it,” said King.” We make stuff classic and consistently, and that’s how we market ourselves,” King said and added that the one-off nature of his designs has also seen a surge in popularity. After all, in the Instagram age everyone wants to have what others cannot get their hands on.

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