SINGER John Denver had it right when he sang ‘Country roads, take me home’. I have always maintained that there is nothing quite like a winding rural lane or rugged mountain pass – even better if it is not tarred – to slow one down and create a real sense of journey.
Because we all know it isn’t only about arriving, but how you get there.
There are reportedly almost 600 000km of gravel roads in South Africa, and it’s been my long-time goal to travel most of them at least once. (We are probably halfway by now.)
It is also an irrefutable fact that the best locations, views and experiences generally lie at the end of the ‘worst’ roads.
Think of the Eastern Cape’s Wild Coast, Mozambique beach destinations, deep Drakensberg camps, the Richtersveld, Sani Pass (well, before the tarring began), Tankwa Karoo… Getting there might be a challenge but the sense of wonder upon arrival is usually in inverse proportion to the ease of accessibility.
With the big tourism push for us to get out and see our own country while the rest of the world is temporarily offline to us Saffas, we travel-lovers have done our part in adding many thousands of backroad dirt-busting miles onto the bakkie.
The general rule is that if there is a gravel alternate route, we take it. And we are seldom disappointed. You really don’t need to venture too far from home to find a great contender either, and if you get the season right (dry), it doesn’t necessarily require a tough 4×4 either. Take it easy. What’s the hurry?
I recently learned the most delightful word – coddiwomple (Google it – it’s real.) Coddiwompling is defined as ‘travelling in a purposeful manner towards a vague destination’.
Actually, if you think about it, the opposite is just as much fun – travelling in a vague manner towards a known destination. Also known as the scenic route.
No matter what is going on in one’s life, a little coddiwompling is just the ticket to making things brighter and happier.
Travel ideas
If you need inspiration for a few wild coddiwomples, I highly recommend these that have given us immense delight in recent years:
On the west coast of South Africa – from Strandfontein to Papendorp – is the most stunning coastline route traversing the cliffs and behind the dunes.
In Zululand, turn off the N2 near Pongolapoort dam and follow the Candover road towards Magudu – and do look back for incredible views of the dam. In the coastal forest section of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, there is little to beat the sandy tracks leading through the undulating grasslands between Kosi Bay and Lake Sibaya.
Between Queenstown and Stutterheim, try the side road that leads to the delightful restored historic village of Thomas River.
If you have a spare tyre or two, the R355 (South Africa’s longest gravel road) through the Tankwa Karoo is just an amazing trip through the centre of nothingness.
Or branch westwards towards the back end of the Biedouw Valley for a breathtaking ride – and onwards past Wuppertal, up and around the dramatic Cederberg.
Near Dordrecht in the Eastern Cape, the farm roads lead to wondrous destinations, as does the road between Lady Grey and Rhodes, tucked up against the foothills of the Drakensberg mountains.
And speaking of ‘Berg routes, one of the best ever is that from Himeville towards Nottingham Road, past the Mkhomazi Wilderness area where every bend promises even better vistas of the picturesque mountains. It’s hard to pick the MOST paradisiacal wild route of all (every one I do becomes my new favourite), but if pushed, I’d lean towards the lesser-known winding way past Van Wyksdorp to Herbertsdale in the southern Cape region.
My goodness, that is a scenic wonder without compare. Happy coddiwompling, and we’ll see you on the gravel!
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