Signet rings have been a practical part of men’s fashion for thousands of years. For wealthy and important men, a signet ring was a powerful tool akin to a signature. A signet ring is set apart from other rings based on an engraved or raised symbol, series of words or letters, or image on the top half of the ring that was representative of its wearer in some way. It could have been a name, initials, job title, rank, organization or family crest.
Though no longer necessary to seal correspondence, it was once an essential part of society and culture and played a significant role in history.
The Signet Ring Today
Today the “seal ring” doesn’t hold much meaning in society anymore. Originally signet rings were emblazoned with a family crest and they would frequently be used to stamp, or sign a document. The metal shapes would leave a permanent mark in any soft wax or even clay and this would be placed onto a variety of legal documents. It’s more of a fashion statement or family heirloom handed down from one generation to the next. The Royal family in England and other aristocratic families in Europe represent a few types of people you might expect to see wearing an authentic, inherited signet ring.
Prince Charles has developed a characteristic look over the years that include double-breasted peaked lapel suits and his Prince of Wales signet ring.
There are still those that commission a jeweller to manufacture their family crest ring, but most men who own signet rings inherited them from their ancestors and will eventually hand it down to the next generation of sons.
Many world leaders opted to wear these rings as well as their wedding rings on a day to day basis, whereas others stowed them safely away. Today, variations of signet rings still occur with many Freemasons wearing a marked ring identifying themselves to others. Many other clubs and organizations offer seal rings as their trademark.
In most cases today it’s a matter of personal style when a man wears a signet ring.
Some clubs, corporations, sporting leagues, federations, and families still give signet rings as gifts upon a graduation, service anniversary or a commendation. Many military men wear signet rings that reflect their rank as a standing symbol whereas others wear symbolic rings to showcase the branch they served with.
Should You Get A Signet Ring?
At the end of the day, it’s entirely up to you. It’s a unique piece of jewellery and as a man, besides your gold wedding band and maybe your collar pin or a tie pin or your cufflinks, there’s not a whole lot of jewellery you can wear and still appear elegant.
What Finger Should You Wear Your Signet Ring On?
There are no hard and fast rules, so you can wear a ring on any finger you choose. That being said, there are many traditions about which fingers rings should go on. During Victorian times, men would wear their pinkie ring and their wedding ring stacked together on the left hand. Winston Churchill wore his signet on his right ring finger.
In Britain, there’s a clear preference for the pinkie finger of the left hand but ultimately, it’s entirely up to you. If you are going to wear it as your wedding ring, then it would normally go on your left ring finger.
Signet Ring Metal & Style Options
Most rings come in 9, 14, or 18 karat gold. Either a white gold, rose gold or yellow gold. You can also go with sterling silver which is a lot less expensive.
Most gemstone rings come with a flat stone or cabochon cut stone on top. If you don’t like a center stone, you can also go with simple metal.
In terms of colour and stones, the most popular are black onyx, garnet, blue lapis lazuli or a bloodstone, which is a dark green with red inclusions; you can also find a carnelian which is dark red.
Signet Ring Shapes
Signet Ring Shapes
There are six shapes most commonly available in signet rings, with of course others that have been introduced over the years. Here are the popular six which have lasted through time:
- Round cut: an elegant, traditional shape
- Straight Oval cut: by and large the most popular signet ring shape, it’s very easy for the engraver to work with
- Oxford cut: a heavy, square-ish ring that takes the shape of a solid square or rectangle with rounded corners
- Bulbous Oval cut: a heavier, more distinctive looking ring that is nearly round
- Octagon cut: a very modern, far less traditional ring style
- Cushion cut: a favourite shape during the Victorian era, this is the next most popular style second to the straight oval
Engraving & Ring Details
For a family crest, you should decide if you want it raised or engraved. When it comes to engraving, there are different options. You can either have it engraved at all the same depth, or the more three-dimensional engraving which takes more time it looks much nicer but it’s also more expensive.
No Family Crest?
If you like the design or the concept of a signet ring but your family doesn’t have a coat of arms, should you get one? Legally, the answer is clear. Anyone can go out and create a ring with their own coat of arms and some people who are traditionalists may argue that it is more the sign of an impostor because you pretend to be part of the nobility or of a class of society that you are in fact not.
While certain families have had coat of arms and family crests for generations, they all started at one point in time and just because your family didn’t have one, and you really want one for your family, we think it’s legitimate to simply start a new tradition. Of course, the design is entirely up to you.
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