Limpopo’s riches discovered on road trip to northern frontier

Scenes flashing past at high speed on travels along the N1 heading north are surprising gems found strewn across an ever-changing landscape.
In the comfort of the Ford Kuga discoveries become recordings of what is stumbled upon on a memorable road trip. The plush interior of the vehicle makes for an easy ride past the boulders of Botlokwa, hair salons housed in shacks advertising cuts and chizkop, posters on display marketing Election Day and an upcoming marriage seminar in the settlement, crossing the Tropic of Capricorn and passing a sign for fresh offal in the vicinity of Bandelierkop en route to Louis Trichardt. Leaving the misty Soutpansberg Mountains behind, the countryside opens up into the plains of Africa that allow for views of a landscape bedecked with tall grass that catch the golden sun and baobabs along the stretch to the border town of Musina.

The business hub is alive with cross-border movement, in contrast to earlier reports of business having slowed down due to unrest at nearby Beit Bridge late last week. In between observing business feverishly continuing and the signs of otherwise sub-standard service delivery, there is an encounter with a (toy)gun-toting boy who demands his photo taken. It takes a minute to stop and capture an image of another posing with a live chicken presumably slowly making its way to the pot and photograph merry young girls jumping rope outside their humble dwelling.
Arriving at Mapungubwe National Park, sightings of rocky outcrops towering above a serene baobab-scattered setting remind of remnants of a vast erstwhile settlement of about 5 000 people flowing over to current Zimbabwe and Botswana in the distance. The ancient kingdom at the confluence of the Limpopo and Shashe Rivers dated back to around 1750 to 1220. According to information gained from the internet, it had its capital at Mapungubwe, was the first stage in a development that later culminated in the creation of the Kingdom of Zimbabwe and had gold trading links with Rhapta and Kilwa Kisiwani on the east coast of Africa.
In the shade of the structure constituting the award-winning interpretation centre near the main gate, Mapungubwe Heritage Site cultural guide Johannes Masalesa narrates the story of the discovery of the treasures of the ancient kingdom a stone throw away back in 1932. As the story goes a certain game hunter by the surname of Van Graan apparently came upon the hut of the aged Mabina Mokoena in search of drinking water. Being presented with water in a unique clay jug he enquired about the source thereof, whereupon he was told of the city of Mapungubwe. The old man declined to identify the secret place as not to disturb the ancestral spirits, despite gold coins offered in exchange. However, after continued attempts Mokoena’s son Chewana volunteered to go point out the hill, which he did with his back turned towards it, Masalesa mentions. Having turned blind later it was believed that he was being punished for the deed. According to the information at hand the beads of glass, shell and gold, iron and artefacts found on the hill had been shared among Van Graan’s party, explains Masalesa. Later on Van Graan’s one son seemingly convinced his father to have the place protected and in 2003 it was declared a United Nations Education, Science and Cultural Organisation (Unesco) World Heritage Site before officially opening to the public in 2004.
Sadly the conversation with Malasela stretches beyond the cut-off time for a visit to the on-site museum. Expressing the opinion that it means a lot to share his knowledge with people from cultures across the world, he tells of the book Mapungubwe: Place of Ancestors published last May and shares the fact that Chewana Mokoena was his grandfather. For purposes of research he had even crossed over into Botswana, he says. The book has not been launched as yet due to financial constraints, he concludes.

Against the setting sun the map of the circle route back home affords a last glance of a landscape that contains a magic of its own. Having embarked on the final stretch past the one-horse towns of Alldays, Vivo and Mogwadi, one of the last reminders is another crossing of the Tropic of Capricorn.
It announces the conclusion of a trip to Limpopo’s northern frontier along which numerous memoirs were collected of natural riches… majestic mountain scapes and flowing grasslands basking in the rays of the morning sun, a rural quiet swapping its golden glow for a silvery dusk wrap and the lingering energetic presence sensed at the ancient trading post of Mapungubwe. No one can be blamed for becoming smitten on a road trip.

Story and photos: YOLANDE NEL
>>observer.yolande@gmail.com

Featured photo: Mapungubwe Heritage Site cultural guide Johannes Masalesa narrates his story against the backdrop of the award-winning visitor centre with its historical treasures.