Born in South Africa’s North West province, Sibella’s life nearly ended at the hands of hunters. At two years of age, this young cheetah was attacked by hunting dogs who tore away all the flesh on her hind legs, a rope was forced roughly into her mouth, and she was savagely beaten and locked in a cage. She was fortunate enough to be rescued by the De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Trust, endured a five-hour surgery and received dedicated rehabilitation.
In December 2003, Sibella began a new chapter when she was introduced onto Samara along with two male cheetah, also rescued from conflict with farmers. The three cheetah were placed in adjoining temporary enclosures to enable them to get used to each other and their new environment.
And in April 2004, Sibella was the first to be released into the wild – and the first cheetah back in the Karoo in 130 years.
Before her death, of natural causes, in 2015 at the ripe age of 14, she raised 19 cubs, was grandmother to 10 and great-gran to 18.
And it’s with some of these offspring that guests at Samara’s Karoo Reserve’s eco-conscious Plains Camp can walk.
This new camp is a grounding experience in the Karoo …all about connecting with nature, with the focus on the ultimate luxuries … time and space.
There’s no Wi-Fi. No electricity. No high-tech distractions. What there is, is time. And space. And solitude. And a whole load of unpretentious, old-school safari luxury.
Four tents, with a fifth serving as a communal mess tent, hug a low hill in a remote part of the Samara Karoo Reserve, with views over the plains towards the impressive mountain range. Plains where springbok and gemsbok, zebra and giraffe, wildebeest and ostrich meander and graze.
The emphasis is on ecotourism, an explorer-style experience where the early morning bush walks are the highlight. Yes, you will in all likely hood walk with cheetah – as, starting with Sibella, Samara has continued, and is well known, for its hugely successful cheetah conservation programme. But it’s also a time to explore the smaller things so often missed on a drive … tracks and birds’ nests and ostrich eggs and flowering Karoo bossies. Maybe a snake or two.
Evening game drives see guides venture further away, often up the mountains (a hair-raising ride for those nervous of heights!) to the plateau on top where the game is abundant … mountain zebra, always, and often lion. G&Ts and Amarula and cold beers always taste better in the wild and with a view … after sundowners, the drive winds its way back to camp. Along the way, fairly large crashes of rhino (dehorned for their safety), buffalo, and a small herd of elephant … rounding off the Big Five there are signs of leopard, but sightings are rare.
The experience continues back at the camp. In the mess tent – a soft, worn khaki leather sofa, well-thumbed books, binocs for game spotting – guests are treated to simple but tasty meals … if the weather plays fair, around the fire under the Jacketplum tree, otherwise in the tent next to the fireplace. There’s a small farm-style plunge pool for really welcome dips during the heat of the day, a bar cart for equally welcome drinks anytime.
The guests’ tents are made to resemble the semi-permanent mobile camps set up during safaris years ago – and they’re not short on luxury. In shades of khaki, pumpkin and oatmeal, with twin, incredibly comfy, beds, the team have thought of everything … from warm robes and slippers to flasks of boiling water so you can sip coffee or tea on the deck. There’s no electricity, but solar lamps provide all the light you need, and there’s an indoor loo and basin with constantly-refilled jugs of water, and an outside open-air bucket shower, filled with hot water on request. Always keeping sustainability and being eco-conscious top of mind, a set of biodegradable toiletries is provided. Each tent also has a small fireplace – madly welcome for winter stays.
With a maximum of eight guests (no children younger than 16), and a small but efficient on-site team, this off-grid experience really does allow you to completely relax, unwind, reconnect with nature and remember what’s really important in life.
Details: Samara Karoo Reserve, near Graaff-Reinet. www.samara.co.za
For more on travel, visit Get It Magazine.
