Traversing the Kingdom of eSwatini offers an unforgettable experience

Along the eastern border with Mozambique is the Lebombo, a mountain ridge, at an altitude of around 600 metres. The mountains are broken by the canyons of three rivers, the Ngwavuma, the Usutu and the Mbuluzi. This is cattle-ranching country.

The western border of eSwatini, with an average altitude of 1 200 metres, lies on the edge of an escarpment. Between the mountains rivers rush through deep gorges. Mbabane, the capital, is on the Highveld.

The Middleveld, lying at an average 700 metres above sea level, is the most densely populated region of eSwatini with a lower rainfall than the mountains.

Manzini, the principal commercial and industrial city, is situated in the Middleveld. The Lowveld of eSwatini, at around 250 metres, is less populated than other areas and presents a typical African bush country of thorn trees and grasslands.

It offers a wide variety of landscapes, from the mountains along the Mozambican border to savannas in the east and rainforest in the north-west. Several rivers flow through the country.

There are known to be 507 bird species, including 11 globally threatened species and four introduced species, and 107 mammal species endemic to eSwatini, including the critically endangered south-central black rhinoceros and seven other endangered or vulnerable species.

In short, this is paradise! The icing on the cake is, fuel is cheaper in eSwatini!

Back to motorcycles!

We packed, fuelled up and hit the R40 towards Barberton. This scenic road always gets my blood pumping. I had a feeling this was going to be one memorable weekend of riding!

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Our plan was to enter at Josefsdal/Bulembu, ride gravel roads, cross rivers, explore mountains, smell fresh air and end the day above the clouds at a beautiful lodge with a worsie on the fire.

Let me tell you about the route

The tar road to Barberton melts its way down the Hilltop Pass that overlooks the green De Kaap Valley. The views are breathtaking.

Continue towards Barberton, when you reach the intersection at 25°45’44.6″S 31°02’59.6″E, continue straight. You will sweep up the Saddleback Pass, one of the steepest passes in South Africa with a climb of 609 metres above sea level and spectacular views.

The road has several places to stop and admire your motorcycle with the panoramic views behind it. This route is filled with happiness through the blood-pumping chicanes and hairpin bends. The old cable transportation that was used is still visible on the road.

The closer you get to eSwatini, the greater the road gets. Don’t be in a hurry! You will be sharing the road with trucks, cattle and goats. Cross the border with your passport and necessary documentation, and be very excited!

Bulembu

The first town in eSwatini is the old mining town, Havelock, now Bulembu. Havelock was connected to Barberton with a cable car system that transported asbestos. In the 1960s, this town was one of its largest producers.
This town now hosts a large children’s home.

If you are an abandoned building hunter, you will have a field day in this town! Bulembu also offers a museum worth visiting with fresh honey and curios for sale.

The cable car system is on display and its structure will be visible from Barberton on the route. Many interesting tales have been told about this cable car.

Continue straight through the town of Bulembu, towards 25°56’43.6″S 31°08’20.5″E. As you already know, adventure starts when the tar road ends.

Keep an eye out for old houses and structures on the way. Continue straight on this picturesque gravel road until you reach Piggs Peak at 25°57’29.0″S 31°14’57.8″E, and turn right.

You can purchase a sim card in this town, should you require one for cell coverage. Fuel up, because the road is long!

To Maguga

Ride to 25°59’06.0″S 31°14’21.0″E and turn left towards Maguga Dam. Maguga Dam Lodge is an absolute favourite, overlooking Maguga Dam.

A magnificent and well-priced restaurant and lodge await you there. Maguga Dam is a dam on the Komati River. The dam is 115m high (yes high).

The Maguga Dam Joint Venture received a commendation from the South African Association of Consulting Engineers in the category of Engineering Excellence with a value greater than R5 million for 2002.

The dam also won the Concrete Society of Southern Africa’s 2003 Fulton Award for Civil Engineering Structures. A hydroelectric power station has the capacity to generate 20MW of electricity from Maguga Dam.

Sibebe rock

Continue past Maguga Dam and turn left at 26°08’26.5″S 31°12’24.3″E. Cross the Mbuluzi River and enjoy the beautiful waterfall at 26°13’05.5″S 31°11’16.3″E.

If you feel brave, attempt a ride on those slippery rocks next to the waterfall for the best photo ever! If you feel invincible and indestructible, inflate a truck or tractor tube and do that big slide.

Please do it in summer and send me the video! The greatest surprise awaits you at 26°15’28.2″S 31°10’04.0″E… Sibebe Rock!

Sibebe is a granite mountain in eSwatini, located 10km from Mbabane. It is the second-largest monolith in the world and the largest exposed granite pluton, rising 350m above the valley of the Mbuluzi River.

What an honour to gaze upon that solid beaut. This geographical statue of granite took my breath away. This is an absolute must-visit.

Road trip!

Let’s remember why we came to eSwatini, to ride our motorcycles. Turn back towards 26°13’05.8″S 31°12’19.6″E, and turn right.

The gravel roads are filled with adventure. Approximately 8km on this gravel road, an informal soccer field is situated on what could have been the top of the world, 26°12’58.5″S 31°16’06.7″E. The 360-degree view absolutely took my breath away.

I am sure this field is used to play against visiting teams who are stronger and keener to win. The visiting team would be dazzled by the views and completely forget about the ball! Continue to 26°12’12.1″S 31°18’39.7″E and turn right.

This road follows the edge of the Nyonyane Protected Landscape. Savour every moment on that gravel road to the small town, Luve, where fuel and supplies can be purchased.

For now, the beautiful tar roads can be enjoyed. Turn left onto the MR5 at 26°19’18.7″S 31°28’54.0″E and left again at 26°05’21.1″S 31°32’55.3″E. Turn left again onto the gravel road at 26°06’11.5″S 31°31’11.5″E. This gravel road will take you through the Nyonyane Protected Landscape.

The road also follows the Komati River which slices through the mountains. Continue on this gravel road which leads through the gallery of nature’s enchantment.

Continue until you reach the tar road at 26°01’25.1″S 31°16’29.2″E. This point is halfway between Maguga Dam and Piggs Peak.

Great accommodation, views and restaurants are available at both. Feel free to spend the night, spend the weekend, spend a week, or just relocate permanently.

Our road trip

This was an absolute memorable road trip. We made bookings at a very remote lodge. Upon arrival, we took out our droëwors and biltong and suddenly we were surrounded by cats and dogs.

The view from the lodge was great, but the fluffy animals’ desire for our biltong and wors was greater, which almost caused a full-on fluffy animal war to get our meat.

We later found out that the lodge was a retreat for vegetarians. We quickly packed up and relocated to a place where our “wors” was welcome. I know you will fall as deeply in love with eSwatini as I am.

As any lover, we – the lovers of eSwatini – are very jealous. Handle this country with the respect she deserves and make sure we are welcome next time we visit. “If you think adventure is dangerous, try routine, it’s lethal.”

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