Nilotiqa founder and owner Thokizle Mangwiro.Photo: Twitter @HeyThoko
The politicising of black hair has been done for decades, and black natural products have been shown a lot of love recently on social media around the world. Not only caused by the Black Lives Matter movement in the United States (US), there has been a push and a clear message: support black-owned businesses.
This was clear after the viral owner and the brand challenge, when many black consumers noticed that products marketed for them were white-owned. Black natural hair comes with its kinks, coils, and curls and many of these businesses use natural ingredients such as shea butter, coconut oil, and other essential oils, with limited processing to let the natural hair thrive in the way it’s supposed to be.
AfroBotanics has been an industry leader locally for the past couple of years, seen by some naturalists as one of the first well-known brands to be marketed for the masses. Founder and owner Ntombehle Khathwane is passionate about changing the narrative of the normative beauty standards – that hair should be straight and that light-skinned women are deemed more beautiful.
She registered the businesses in 2011 and left her job after being disillusioned that she could make a difference in the continent by having a government job.
She said when she saw the gap in the market for natural hair it was life-changing: “It was also revolutionary because black South African women were consumers of products, not owners. We had black beauty brand owners, but none were women! Most beauty, personal care brands and products on South African shelves are not owned by African women!”
AfroBotanics became the first local brand to reach big retailers such as Clicks in 2015 when the market eventually experienced its boom. Khathwane says she had tried since 2011 to get her products on those shelves.
Wide range of AfroBotanics products. Photo: Instagram, Afrobotanics
Nilotiqa founder Thokizle Mangwiro had equally a difficult and long road to get her products into retail shops.
“The journey was extremely difficult. The goal was to always get Nilotiqa into as many hands/kinky curls as possible. We continue to vigorously push for this goal.”
They created products that tackled the natural hair battleand retained moisture, as if there is no protective layer the hair will usually break and cause dandruff.
Mangwiro explained: “Since then we have embarked on finding solutions for the persistent problems. The more people understood how to manage and embrace their natural hair, the market had grown.”
The market has indeed grown, with the likes of Volumicious which prides itself on growing African hair whether it’s relaxed or natural. Zoey Mkabela launched her products in 2017 for people with different hair types or textures (afro, relaxed, dreadlocks) and clients who used them found that it actually worked on growing their hair.
Mkabela shared that one of the biggest mistakes people make with natural hair is not washing it frequently.
“Hair that is not washed frequently, the pores get clogged up and there is a build-up of dirt on the scalp. Whatever people apply on a dirty scalp will not work effectively.”
Volumicious owner Zoey Mkabela. Photo: Facebook, Volumicious
She added that the method of non-protective hairstyles such as braids or cornrows can be very damaging. “Non-protective hairstyles that pull from the hairline make it difficult to base and wash the scalp. Styles that pull from the hairline result in hairline receding.”
These are some the tips to keep your natural hair moisturised this winter:
Khathwane wishes the support for black-owned businesses can be a similar culture as seen in the US.
“If the South African economy is to grow and with it produce sustainable jobs, we need to deliberately buy local and buy black. Black South Africans do support black businesses, my brand and other brands that are doing well are supported by black South Africans, but the majority don’t do it consciously.
“We need to be conscious and direct our spending. It may mean an uncomfortable period of letting go of brands you have long bought, but it is necessary to make the economy more equitable.”
Volumicious agrees, but they would also like to see more of a consumer-focused approach. They will be launching an exciting product in July but are keeping it a secret and will continue to spread their message of hope, particularly to the men and women that have given up on their hair.
Mangwiro says Nilotiqa’s key focus for the rest of the year will be partnering with powerful online platforms so that their products continue to be easily accessible, and that the black consumer deserves products that come from black-owned backgrounds.
AfroBotanics now has grown its brand to include a skincare range and wants to continue growing its kiddies range, too. They will be introducing a range for scalp care, with anti-dandruff and anti-inflammatory properties because a healthy scalp is the beginning of healthy, growing hair.
“We are also introducing a multivitamin for hair and skin because beauty comes from the inside,” said Khathwane.
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